AsNew York Fashion Week(NYFW) 2019 draws to a close, the prestigious clothing event flaunted a number of flamboyant designs and inventive collections. 3D printing has played an increasingly relevant role within recentmajor fashion eventsdue to the creative freedom it offers designers, and this year’s NYFW was no different.
3D打印Stratasysmade an appearance at the event through a novel technique. The company unveiled the ability to 3D print directly onto fabric, in collaboration with esteemed fashion designersthreeASFOUR和Travis Fitch.
Using theStratasys J750 3D打印机,聚合物被直接添加到块中‘Chro-Morpho’ collection, showcased by models at threeASFOUR’s fall/winter runway show. Stratasys believes the technique represents the way forward for 3D printing in the fashion industry.
“我们一直在寻求彻底改变制造方法，开拓者的新设计选择，并激发设计师和学生在没有界限的情况下创建。”Naomi Kaempfer, Stratasys Art, Design and Fashion Director.
“我们的使命是改变人们对设计的看法，并重新定义可能的方式。”
3D printing in high-end fashion
多年来，时装设计师创建超凡脱俗的陈述作品多年来，3D打印已成为一种主要技术，原本很难或不可能生产。多亏了开创性的设计师，例如艾里斯·范·赫本（Iris Van Herpen）, 3D printing has been embraced by many emerging designers includingMingjing Lin和Anesi之家founderStephania Stefanakou, due to its flexible nature.
It also made a dazzling display at theMet Galathis year through American fashion designer Zac Posen. Enlisting the services ofGE Additive和protolabs, Posen created severaloutfits adorned with 3D printing, sported by the likes of Andrew Garfield and Nina Dobrev.The technology is also a regular of many films set costume departments, most notably of late helping in the fabrication of the Academy award-winning mantel and crown worn by漫威的黑豹女王拉蒙达女王.
但是，在大多数情况下，3D打印已用于创建贴在织物服装上的单独元素，或者是整个衣服本身。由于工艺的复杂性，很少使用3D打印的技术直接使用。注意的示例包括Iris Van Herpen，他在2018年与之合作应用了该方法TU Delftfor herSpring/Summer collection at Paris Fashion Week.
Stratasys explains however that the direct 3D printing technique offers unparalleled flexibility and integrity, providing a tool for designers to create modern, functional apparel. It also represents the key to unlocking 3D printing’s commercial viability in the fashion industry, according to the company.
Its project with threeASFOUR and Travis Fitch is part of an ongoing effort towards merging fashion and 3D printing for high-end couture, and eventually, series production.Kaempfer added:
“Within the next two years, I believe consumers will be able to purchase an array of 3D printed garments from high-fashion brands. The result will be access to an explosion of unique color and texture combinations that are simply not possible through traditional methods.”
Creating harmony between 3D printing and textiles
The design of the Chro-Morpho collection shown is inspired by the microscopic colors and light filtering of butterfly and insect wings. The color morphology was captured thanks to the innovative direct 3D printing technique, using the J750 system.
Threeasfour的联合创始人兼创意总监Adi Gill解释说：“我们创造了类似皮肤和深度的皮肤幻觉，以描绘昆虫的先天伪装，色彩转移和发光度。”“With 3D design and printing, we’ve embodied the fragility and light wing movement of the butterfly. It’s a stunning display of nature, fashion, and technology.”
One dress from the collection was designed using a Stratasys-engineered lenticular effect to play with light and color, in order to replicate the appearance of the Greta-Oto butterfly. The capabilities of the J750 PolyJet 3D printer allowed the designers to print thousands of small, spherical cells made of photopolymers directly onto polyester fabric. Each cell on the dress’s 27 parts contains a clear lens with strips of color contained inside, which enabled the color of the dress to change as it moved. 3D printing the cells took approximately 17 hours.
Kaempfer explains the benefits of 3D printing onto textiles, stating that it allows designers to capture the nuances of their creative vision. Instead of thinking about how 3D printing can replace textile materials, they can consider how the two can work together and bring the best out in each other.Kaempfer continued:
“软,柔软织物接触皮肤,而3 d革命制度党nted designs adorn the outer garment. This approach, developed through months of collaboration and testing, was the only way to realize the designers’ vision. It brings the intricacy, nuance and splendor of the dresses to life.”
The Chro-Morpho collection will henceforth make appearances in museums across North America. It will be displayed at thePhiladelphia Museum of Art从10月21日开始的“不同未来的设计”展览。该系列还将访问Walker Art Centerin Minneapolis and the Art Institute of Chicago in 2020.
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特色的图像表演模特在穿着纽约市CHRO-Morpho系列的连衣裙时走上跑道。通过Thomas Concordia/Getty Images拍摄style360/Stratasys的照片。
